The fabled Khyber Cross from Kabul to Pakistan – Rick Steves’ Shuttle Weblog

Friday, August 4, 1978: Kabul to Rawalpindi, Pakistan 

This was once the morning I used to be psyched for. I don’t assume I may have woken up feeling dangerous and I didn’t. Each Gene and I felt just right. We had a final large Sina Resort breakfast and stuck our little 8:30 bus to Pakistan. 

This bus was once the best way I sought after to do Khyber Cross. I had dreamed of crossing this romantically wild and traditionally unhealthy cross for years and it was once very top on my existence’s tick list of items to do — within the most sensible 5 evidently. Now I used to be sitting in this kinky outdated brightly, however badly painted, bus subsequent to a lovely open window that permit me lean part of my frame out if I sought after to. Our seats had been large and top but crowded and the bus was once stuffed with Pakistanis and “Street to India” vacationers. 

I used to be satisfied to get out of Kabul and nearly in an instant we had been in a scenic mountain cross. From right here to the border, whilst not anything through Pacific Northwest requirements, was once the nearest factor to lush that we’ve observed in Afghanistan. We even handed a lake, however I noticed no boats. I puzzled what number of, or how few, Afghans had ever been in a ship. 

Preventing in Jalalabad for a moved quickly lunch smash, we had been again at the street in 20 mins. We had been nearing the border and apprehension grew. We was hoping it wouldn’t be an excessive amount of of a bother however through now not anything stunned us. 

The Afghanistan border station, whilst time eating, was once simple. We simply sat round consuming a melon and wishing we had cash for a Coke. In fact, we had deliberate our money reserves very well and had been leaving without a afghanis. We waited our flip to be searched, crammed out the shape, were given our passports stamped — the standard procedure, and loaded again on best to forestall 100 yards later for our advent to Pakistan. 

This position was once beautiful unruly. We piled right into a room and one at a time we had been referred to as as much as the table. The customs professional “hunt and pecked” our essential statistics into his sign up and stamped our passports. 

Passports in hand, we knew we had been simply midway during the procedure, however we weren’t certain the place to move subsequent. We wandered into one ramshackle development, and in a gloomy room, two males jumped up from two cots and welcomed us to put down. No thank you! We were given out of there and had been overrun through dope sellers and black-market cash chargers. The entirety was once so open and blatant that it nearly appeared felony. We purchased $10 price or Pakistan rupees after which attempted to get our luggage searched so we’d be finished. Annoyed within the chaos, we simply were given at the bus and skipped the bags test. At our window we had been entertained through a number of hash dealers and a in particular chronic guy with a small bottle of cocaine — 4 grams for $30. I took his image and instructed him to get misplaced. 

In spite of everything we had been loaded and able to do it — to move the Khyber Cross. I used to be overjoyed. Bodily, it was once similar to some other rocky mountain cross, however while you’ve puzzled, dreamed, and thought of one thing for a few years, it turns into particular. Up and up the bus climbed. Striking out the window, I attempted to soak up the whole thing — each and every wild flip within the street, each and every fortress-crowned hill, each and every stray goat, each and every gaily painted truck that handed us, and each and every dust hut. I regarded on the rugged individuals who inhabited this treacherous cross and puzzled who they had been, how they lived, what tales may they inform. Dry, rocky graveyards with wind-tattered flags littered the hillsides. Clouds threatened. We had been transferring out of the arid Arab aspect of South Asia and into the rainy Indian subcontinent. Any more we might really feel muggy — however benefit from the inexperienced nation-state. 

We crossed the Khyber Cross and handed via a tribal village to pay a toll for the privilege. I may see the lads round with rifles ignoring the bus and collected in circles buying and selling each items and tales. 

In a couple of mins we had been in Peshawar and located that a right away educate to Lahore was once leaving in an hour. We noticed not anything to stay us in Peshawar and the magnetism of India was once getting more potent and more potent as we were given closer and closer. We hassled round seeking to make a decision how, what, and the place to shop for our tickets. This was once a brand new enjoy — finding out the right way to care for the Pakistani educate machine. Somewhat bewildered and now not certain what was once our easiest transfer, we purchased $3.50 price tag (first-class) for the 12-hour adventure, gobbled down a handy guide a rough 60 cents dinner, and located a place at the not-so-classy first class automotive. 

The one distinction between first and 2nd magnificence was once padded seats and $1.50. We figured for 12 hours it might be great to have the pads. Our automotive was once very crowded. I used to be glad to be close to a window that blew in sizzling, muggy air. We pulled out at 5:50, nearly on time, and I savored the breeze.  

The nation-state was once flat, lush, and fascinating. After some time, I started studying Orwell’s Animal Farm. It was once just right and the time handed well. Then it were given darkish, and the insects got here. The lighting fixtures labored like on my outdated motorcycle — the speedier you move, the brighter they shine. This was once now not an overly shiny educate. The insects were given on me with the intention to discuss and I made a bloody declaration “Dying through ruthless squashing to any malicious program that lands on me to any extent further”. I made up our minds that I’d just mash them with my thumb or arms and roll them via my arm and leg hairs till they disappeared — both rubbing in or falling off. 

The journey dragged on. We made up our minds to get a divorce the journey to Lahore at Rawalpindi, the midway spot, catch an early educate within the morning to finish the commute. 

It was once just about middle of the night as we stepped into the muddy puddled streets of Rawalpindi. There was once a 5:15 educate to Lahore within the morning so lets catch a just right 4 hours of sleep — if lets catch a lodge. It regarded very dangerous — each and every one was once complete and other folks in search of a spot had been additionally pissed off. Happily, I discovered a man with a unmarried open and a bath subsequent door (Gene didn’t inform me concerning the lizards till later). Differently, it was once a hollow slightly price the10 rupees ($1) we paid. Nevertheless it did serve its goal. I took a cooling bathe and located a at ease spot some of the bumps and curves of my cot and shortly I had labored myself to sleep. These days was once a just right day — a number of miles lined, a brand new nation and I had crossed the Khyber Cross.